Entry #33
Judge #1: Very challenging material, outcome possibly just a bit too much engineered, negative space could be defined better.
Judge #2: Good work.
Yew (Taxus baccata)
Spain
60cm (23.6") / 54cm (21.2")
Before
I bought this tree five years ago from a local grower in Barcelona.
It was growing in a field to create a good garden subject. After repotting the tree was cut back to lower its size. In that state I bought a group of trees together with this one.
That is not the conventional way to form bonsai material from nursery stock, but sometimes is very difficult to find yews with thick trunks, so I bought these ones as a long time investment.
The tree still have the original mesh pot inside the roots. This it will be removed step by step. It has a good nebari size, and the tapering is not bad. The first curve give enough movement to make it interesting.
The biggest design problem will be the stump at the top. I think that I’ll have enough fine branches to create a nice siluette
Photo 1
It shows the possible front. In my previous analysis I decide to create the tree with this front, but until I will start with it, I can’t be sure.
Photo 2
This is the side (right from the photo 1)
Photo 3
The back. The trunk looks too clean from here. Maybe I’ll need to carve a little
Photo 4
Close-up of the nebari. Here the mesh pot can be seen. Some roots will be removed to discover the best nebari
Photo 5
The stump from the top. Depends on the final height, this will be carved as a Jin if is bigger that the crown, or a Shari if is lower.
Photo 6
Close-up of the back. Nothing interesting here, just shows the first curve, and the tapering
Photo 7
The requisite
One Quarter Progression
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With the front selected, I remove all the dead roots from the base to discover the future soil level. At this stage, I start to mark where the shari will be with a red pencil.
To create the Deadwood, I’ll use a combination of power tools together with removing manually fiber by fiber.
Half Way Progression
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Aspect of the shari after work. This is the original technique used traditionally by the Japanese masters to create deadwood without power tools. however, I’ll use the Makita to remove the dry stumps, because that is not possible to do it fiber by fiber when the wood is complete dry.
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Here you can see the front with the Wood work nearly finished.
After the work of, I’ll cover the edge of the live side of the bark with sealant to prevent drying.
Three Quarter Progression
At this stage, I start to bend the main branches. To prevent any cracks at the bark, I use in this case butyl Self-fusing rubber tape. In flexible trees like Yew or juniper, this tape works better that raffia, and, if the bark is damaged by any cracks, prevents the contact of the scare with the air , so no oxidation will appears and the healing of the scare is much faster.
Another technique that helps the work, is the use of zip tie or tie-wrap, a type of fastener, especially for binding several electronic cables . This tools gives you more control of the bending listed of the traditional wire.
Final
This is the final view, from te angle chosen. I can repot before the end of the contest because it will be too early, and the tree can die.
[tabgroup]
[tab title=”Judge #1″]
Scores:
Selection: 4
Design: 5
Technique: 5
Final Outcome: 5
Documentation: 10
Originality: 5
Total: 34
Very challenging material, outcome possibly just a bit too much engineered, negative space could be defined better.
[/tab]
[tab title=”Judge #2″]
Scores:
Selection: 9
Design: 7
Technique: 7
Final Outcome: 8
Documentation: 7
Originality: 8
Total: 46
Good work.
[/tab]
[tab title=”Judge #3″]
Scores:
Selection: 7
Design: 7
Technique: 7
Final Outcome: 7
Documentation: 7
Originality: 7
Total: 42
[/tab]
[/tabgroup]